Mount Logan Ice Expedition 2021-2022 A multidisciplinary scientific initiative that seeks to preserve, share, and advance knowledge about climate and change on Canada’s highest peak. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad, Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing, Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos, under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm, Steel 12-pont. Logan, Utah 1979 . Glasses wearers should have a spare set, Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing, It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night. Rich has probably been to Mount Logan more than any other and both he and Canada West (either independently or together) have been conducting successful expeditions to Mount Logan for years. For a quote, or to pur­chase trav­el insur­ance, please click this link Rip­cord Res­cue Trav­el Insur­ance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pos­si­ble sum­mit days. Its unusually steep northern flank is visible from Cap-Chat, on the estuary of Saint … A new chapter in that advancement, and in adventure, began in the 1980s with the emergence of ice core science. Hardly the site, one might think, for careful and exacting scientific study. Places To Stay Glacier Camp. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Blog. Mount Logan is the source of the Hubbard and Loganglaciers. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase! Site by Kin Inc. A Few Tips on Gear for the Mt. Return to camp 5. This is the crux of the climb, but does not involve tech­ni­cal climb­ing. The University of Alberta’s Mount Logan Ice Expedition ( is grateful for the support from The Royal Canadian Geographical Society, The Alpine Club of Canada, Mountain Hardwear, Xact Nutrition and Air North. Such cir­cum­stances may include, but are not lim­it­ed to COVID-19, nat­ur­al dis­as­ters, ter­ror­ism and so forth. UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, © 2020 International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) We con­sid­er it a notch above Denali in seri­ous­ness. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures, Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry, Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Mount Logan is a mountain located on the Gaspé Peninsula, in Quebec, Canada. If it weighs more than 50 lbs. Car­ry to 15,300 feet / 4663 meters. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) was founded in 1932 and has a global presence on six continents representing 89 member associations and federations in 66 countries. Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Redpoint’s Rip­cord Res­cue Trav­el Insur­ance™ is designed for adventurers. A dogsled team headed to a midway point to cache supplies for the 1925 Mount Logan Expedition. MMI must strict­ly adhere to can­cel­la­tion poli­cies out­side MMI’s control. The project is organized in association with The University of Alberta, The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada, the latter two both longstanding members of the UIAA. The biggest chunk of rock, ice and snow in the world. Switzerland, office (at) Unprece­dent­ed in audac­i­ty, scale, and logis­ti­cal chal­lenge, and cul­mi­nat­ing in a des­per­ate float down the Chiti­na Riv­er when all team mem­bers could no longer walk due to frost­bite, many con­sid­er the orig­i­nal expe­di­tion to be ​“among the most ardu­ous moun­tain adven­tures ever under­tak­en.” It is all the more impres­sive as it was the first ever attempt, by any route, on the moun­tain – a true adven­ture of epic pro­por­tions into the unknown. The massif is inside Kluane National Park and is the crown-jewel of the St-Elias Mountains. Rose or amber lenses, One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold, Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove, Insulated, water resistant shell with leather palms, One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Due to the per­son­al­ized ser­vice we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. The Mount Logan King Trench Expedition is a ski-mountaineering trip, and requires use of alpine ski touring gear. Many fac­tors can, and prob­a­bly will, con­tribute to cause the fol­low­ing sched­ule to change. Bring two just in case! Our guid­ed ascent to Mount Logan epit­o­mizes Moun­tain Mad­ness’ spir­it of adven­ture and will pro­vide a huge chal­lenge, but one with incred­i­ble reward. Warm insulation for upper mountain, To organize gear in your duffle and pack. In 1974, Calvert had become one of the first female national park wardens in Canada. Publication Year: 1960. Logan is a big, seri­ous moun­tain with big moun­tain weath­er, geog­ra­phy and acclima­ti­za­tion issues. Protected by a sea of glaciers and some fantastically unpredictable weather. Move to Camp 5 on the sum­mit plateau. complete, go back through all of your equipment with a fine-toothed comb. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. Trips with Spe­cial Con­sid­er­a­tion (Carsten­sz, Cho Oyu, Denali, Logan and Vinson): We strong­ly rec­om­mend the pur­chase of trav­el can­cel­la­tion insur­ance to pro­tect you from the unex­pect­ed. This is an inter­me­di­ate lev­el expe­di­tion climb. The Dolores River is a tributary of the Colorado River, approximately 241 miles (388 km) long, in the U.S. states of Colorado and Utah. Albert H. MacCarthy Lantern Slide Collection. Weigh it. The massif boasts the largest base circumference of any non-volcanic mountain on Earth. Weath­er per­mit­ting, we’ll fly to base camp on the Quinti­no Sel­la Glacier. King Col Car­ry to 12,500 below Camp 3, return to Camp 2. It is not dif­fi­cult ter­rain, but a very demand­ing day of 10 – 15 hours. Pric­ing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and lev­el of coverage. Descend to Camp 2 or con­tin­ue as far as pos­si­ble. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is recommended and ideal, Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody, This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. Expedition leader Albert MacCarthy made this trip prior to the May departure date of the entire Mount Logan Expedition team. Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best, Light or medium-weight fleece (or wool) top with a hood. Purifies drinking water while on the climb. Although com­pa­ra­ble with oth­er big moun­tain clas­sics, such as Aconcagua, Mount Ever­est, Vin­son, and Nun, Mount Logan is often over­looked, but cer­tain­ly among the great­est expe­di­tions on the planet. Synthetic or down filled. How much does it cost to climb Mount Logan? The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8. Car­ry to Prospector’s Col (Iona Col) at about 18,000 feet / 5486 meters and leave a cache. It’s important that you jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and as a thick, insulated hood, Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka, This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun, Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Author: Hans Gmoser. The climb­ing style of the two is quite sim­i­lar, how­ev­er, with four to five camps being set up in the course of two weeks, a car­ry high, sleep low tac­tic is what we favor. Logan is difficult to reach by foot as it is surrounded by some of the largest glaciers in the world and that it is 140km from the nearest road. Fly to Klu­ane Lake and trans­fer to Whitehorse. Every­thing about the trip is big, includ­ing the scale of the region’s geog­ra­phy, which is enor­mous. This intensive, pre-trip program seeks to advance knowledge about the use of high-intensity interval training in hypoxia (simulated altitude) to enhance work performance in extreme environments. Scale unimaginable, Location Remote. Mount Logan is locat­ed in the St. Elias Moun­tain Range of Canada’s Yukon Ter­ri­to­ry and is the sec­ond high­est peak in North Amer­i­ca. Swiss Expedition Mount Logan, 5959 müMApril 30 - May 15, 2014Lukas Richli, Patrick Baldinger, Stefan Leumann, Rich Prohaska. Personne n’avait ridé l’East ridge, cette arrête de 3800 m de dénivelé, alors forcément c’était tentant pour Hélias Millerioux et son compère Thomas Delfino. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type, Four large, pear-shaped carabiners are best, Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache, 6 non-locking carabiners. Acquire all of your equipment well in advance. Learn More Map. NOTE ON SNOWSHOES: Thus making this expedition a wonderful and adventurous journey up and down Canada’s most majestic peak. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. MacCarthy, an American and member of the American Alpine Club, wrote a number of reports and summaries of the expedition, including this list Kein Nachteil, so meinen wir! Ces deux-là ont donc corsé l’affaire par une descente en eaux vives. Landcost: $7,000 Does not include bush pilot fee (~$1,250) or transport to Chitina (~$350). Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience. Mt. For his 20-day expedition to the summit of Mount Logan, Jeff charges CAD$7,700 per person. The 2020 Mount Logan Ice Expedition will be his fourth trip to the Saint Elias Mountains, and his third to Mount Logan. The Logan Massif. Our route of choice – the King Trench – was the one used for the moun­tain’s first ascent in June, 1925. In May 1992, an RCGS-sponsored Geological Survey of Canada expedition, using GPS, determined Mount Logan’s current height to be 5,959 metres (19,551 ft). Climb back over Prospec­tors Col and descend to Camp 4. It is only 593 shorter than Denali. Pos­si­bly move a small load. Yet for all its extraordinary severities, Mount Logan—from its earliest ascent in 1925 by government surveyors with the ACC to the Arctic Institute of North America’s decade-long High Altitude Physiology Study in the 1970s—has constantly been a productive site for the advancement of scientific knowledge. Our property borders Kluane National Park, and is just 9 km from Haines Junction. Red Tape. Please review our equipment list and contact us with any questions - Mount Logan Expedition equipment list. +41 (0) 31 370 1828. In 2001 and 2002, the oldest ice-core record ever collected from the North Pacific region was drilled by a team of federal scientists high on Mount Logan’s summit plateau, near the saddle between Prospector and Russell peaks (5,300 metres). The climbers included Cathy Langhill, Katherine Calvert, Judy Sterner, Loraine Drewes, Diana Knaak and Sharon Wood. You will wear this over your light weight base layer, Mountain Equipment Eclipse Half-Zip Hoodie, This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. Kilimanjaro in the time of Covid. The starting point of this expedition … At Camp 2 we’ll switch back to night sched­ule for the low­er-ele­va­tion trav­el to Base Camp. This work will add an additional two weeks of living on the high plateau itself. Mount Logan comes second in height only to Denali, in Alaska, which is the highest mountain in North America at 20,310 feet. STEWARDSHIP: Please consider the environmental impact of your trash and human waste. First, beginning in September 2019, the Edmonton-based members of the team will work closely with UAlberta sport scientists studying altitude acclimatization performance utilizing a novel training regime. With this scale comes iso­la­tion, so team mem­bers may well feel they are tho only ones around for miles and miles, expe­ri­enc­ing wilder­ness in the purest sense. If you decide to can­cel your trip or change your itin­er­ary, MMI must be noti­fied in writ­ing. If you are in remote areas, please note that emer­gency res­cue & evac­u­a­tion can be very expen­sive. – 25 Days, Includes Glacier flights and shuttle from Whitehorse to Kluane Lake (RT). Today, for example, ice core science plays a critical role in understanding and preparing for the imminent challenges of climate change. Au cœur des grands espaces du Yukon : le Mont Logan, deuxième plus haut sommet d’Amérique du nord. Moun­tain Mad­ness has part­nered with Red­point Res­o­lu­tions as our pre­ferred trav­el insur­ance provider. We will then trans­fer via van to Klu­ane Lake for pick up by Ulti­ma Thule Air Taxi Service. Its many saw-tooth ridges, “like a cosmic comb,” rake moisture from the almost countless, year-round storms produced over the Pacific. Make a cache at around 15,300 feet / 4663 meters for Camp 4 and return to King Col. A short day to rest and accli­ma­tize. Mount Logan from the northeast. The University of Alberta is preparing to return to Mount Logan’s summit plateau in May of 2020 and 2021, with the intent to drill an updated core and bring the record to present, as well as to advance other projects by deploying new analytical methods. Lightweight as possible with a volume of 5,000 – 6,500 cubic inches (85-105 liters), One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). wired straight-gates are recommended, One full-sized ascender with handle for fixed lines (left handed for right handed climbers, or vice-versa), be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width), A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun. Two concurrent projects will be carried out alongside the ice-core work: a physiology study, and a historical landscape analysis. Featured Com­bine this with all its oth­er chal­lenges — sig­nif­i­cant glac­i­er trav­el through ice­falls and huge crevass­es, cold tem­per­a­tures, and extreme weath­er due to its prox­im­i­ty to the Gulf of Alas­ka – we con­sid­er Logan to be one of the most stren­u­ous high-alti­tude climbs we offer at Moun­tain Mad­ness. 31-38). Sin­gle car­ry to Camp 1. Mount Logan Expeditions. In close collaboration with the Mountain Legacy Project at the University of Victoria, the team will follow in the footprints of the mountain’s intrepid first ascensionists and attempt to retake photographs shot during expeditions in 1925, 1950, 1970, and 1992. Few places on Earth are as high, and cold, and remote as Mount Logan. Although Logan is the high­est sum­mit in Cana­da it is still sec­ond in North Amer­i­ca. Descend to Base Camp. Over two spring expeditions, both up Mount Logan's King Trench route, this team's objectives also include re-measuring the official height of the main summit and its sub-summits. This jacket should be full-zip, A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers, Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet, This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. It took him years to get to the top of a mountain where he could do it, but he finally played the world’s highest bridge game on the top of Mount Logan at 19,850 feet. All are experienced climbers. The Mount Logan mas­sif is part of the most exten­sive non-polar ice­field in the world. We’ll col­lect caches along the way. Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Located in the St. Elias Mountains in the Yukon, at 5,959 metres, Mount Logan is second only to Mount McKinley (6,194 metres) in Alaska, the highest elevation in North America. You can enjoy some of the most amazing trails in the Yukon right from our doorstep. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip, A very large stuff sack 2,000 cubic inches (35 liters). While the King Trench is far and away the most fre­quent­ly climbed route on Logan, it is unlike Denali, which has a semi-per­ma­nent park ser­vice ranger patrol, hun­dreds of climbers at camp and on route, and nev­er-end­ing plane traf­fic. Not only is Mount Logan’s bulk ​“more than any oth­er moun­tain in the West­ern Hemi­sphere,” but its neigh­bors – Mount Saint Elias, Mount Bona, Mount King and McArthur – boast equal­ly mas­sive relief and equal­ly sto­ried moun­taineer­ing his­to­ries. Few attempt Mount Logan, and even few­er suc­ceed in reach­ing its sum­mit. Depart at 7am for Klu­ane Lake (two hours by shut­tle), and then fly to Base Camp. Average summer temperatures on the summit plateau hover around -27° C, and tremendous snowfall in the area produces an area of glaciation second only to the polar regions of Antarctica and Greenland. A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day, 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case, To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. The techniques that are available for analyzing ice cores, and the range of information that can be extracted from them, are always advancing, and so the collecting and archiving of these icy records is of vital importance. To pro­tect against loss­es due to ill­ness, acci­dent, or oth­er unfore­seen cir­cum­stances, Moun­tain Mad­ness strong­ly rec­om­mends the pur­chase of trav­el insur­ance as soon as pos­si­ble after mak­ing a deposit. In 1925 Albert H. MacCarthy had just led a successful first ascent of Mount Logan in Canada, composed of climbers from Canada, Britain and the United States. If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition, Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Its remoteness, combined with arctic conditions make Logan one of … We will attempt to accom­mo­date changes and can­cel­la­tions, waiv­ing cer­tain fees when feasible. Russell of the U.S. Geological Survey, while undertaking a survey in the St. Elias Mountains, named Mount Logan for Sir William Edmond Logan (1798-1875). In 1890, I.C. In 1977, an all-women’s team made an attempt on Mount Logan. He was a wry, somewhat reserved man with a magnificent sense of humor and delighted in artfully contriving jokes for his expeditions. The Mount Logan massif is located in the Southwest corner of the Yukon Territory in Western Canada, just above the 60th parallel.